Bloomer or like garment



J. P. BOLAND A 1,830,824

Nov. 10, 1931.

1 BLooMER 0R LIKE GARMENT Filed oct. 14, .1929' 2 sheets-sham 1 Nov. 10, 1931.

J. P. BOLAND BLOOMER OR LIKE GARMENT 2 Sheets-snaai 2 Filed Ocl.. 14, 1929 Patented Nov. l10, 1931 UNITED ,STATES PATENT oFFlcE JOSEPH P. BOLAND, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO MARSHALL FIELD @nl COM- PANY, OF OHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ACORPORATION F ILLINOIS BLooiuER oa LIKE GARMENT Application iled October 14, 1929. Serial No. 399,453. y

This invention relatesto a closed garment i' 1' baggy over the hips or in the front of the garment at other times; a construction that will also aord properroom for the thighs while sitting without making the legs too baggy while standing; a construction which will eliminate all seams extending either longitudinally or transversely across the center of the'crotch, thus promoting comfort and eliminating possible pulling apart of the seam by the stresses incident to the use of the garment; a construction which will give ldepth to the garment from front to rear at the inner faces of the thigh portions of the legs and thereby give -shape to said thigh portions and ample room for the thighs while sitting withoutbagginess while standing, besides permitting the use of two thicknesses of material at said faces where wear is greatest without doubling the thickness in the crotch; and a construction which, by the direction of the threads of the cloth, distributes the strains from the back, and, when the wearer is sitting, over a greater area and with less strain on the seams.

The invention proceeds upon the principle ofproducing the back portion of the garment, including the seat, from a gusset extending from a point at or near the waist downwardly past thehip portions, and having lateral edges through which it is incorporated into the garment diverging downwardly to the hip portions and converging downwardly therebeyond in a manner to produce a seat that is rounded from side to side and rounded'from waist to crotch, in order to aiord desired fullness to accommodate the hips of the wearer when assuming a stooping or sitting posture, 'without leaving a fullness or baggy condition while the wearer is standingerect; this gusset, in the form in which the advantages of the invention are to be realized to the fullest extent, also includlng a crotch forming portion extending from the lower extremity of the seat portion of the back past the transverse crotch line tol the front of the garment, so as to provide a seamless crotch; also two leg enlarging portions extending downward from said back gusset on either side of the crotch forming portion 1n position to be incorporated into and lend to the circumferental dimensions members; and there being likewise incorporated in the leg members, minor gussets of substantially triangular form extending generally .along the transverse middle line of the crotch, the uppermost edges of which are seamed to the lateral edges of the crotch forming portions, while their rear edges are seamed to the inner edges of the leg enlarglng portlons of the gusset, and their forward edges are seamed to the inner margins of the leg forming portions of the front of the garment, so that these minor or leg insert gussets constitute the inner walls of the legs of the garment and, being formed separately, canbe made. of more than one-ply material if desired without involving seams in positions that would be objectionable to the wearer.

While the invention is not limited to any particular direction of disposal of the texture of the garment, the main back gusset, including the closed seat and the crotch extension which reaches the front of the garment, will preferably be formed with its elasticity horizontal, while the minor or leg insert gussets will be formed with their elasof the legl ticity extending from front to rear of the inner'faces of the legs.

In the accompanying drawings- Figure 1 isa front view of a garment in normal position.

Figure 2 is a rear view of the same.

Figure 3 is a view of the blank from which the front` sides, and portions of the back of the body member and leg members of the garment are made.

Figure 4 is a plan View of the gusset forming the main portion of the back as well as th'J seamless crotch and leg enlarging portions thetecf; and

Figure 5 represents a pair of minor or leg insert gussets.

A represents the body portion of the garment, and B the legs thereof. In the em- 5 bodiment selected for illustration, the body ortion A comprises front portion C, hips l), and a back made up of two portions E adjacent the hi s and an insert gusset l. The

legs B have t eir Jfront walls, their louter side walls, and the greater portion of their back Walls formed integrally with the material that makes the bodymember, but-are otherwise built up of special parts in accordance with the invention, which will now be described.

The gusset 1 which constitutes the main portion of the back of the garment, including the seat and portions of the legs, is made from a blank shaped as shown in Figure 4,

in which the outer margins 2b, which enter into the seams 2 (Figure 2) in incorporating the back into the garment, diverge downwardly to the region of the hips in order to give the fullness already referred to, and

converge below the hips in order to restrict the dimensions at the thighs.

Centrally depending from the blank 1 is a crotch forming portion 3 which, as will be seen by comparing Figures 1 and 2, extends from the lower extremities of the seat for- Wardly across the transverse crotch line and upwardly to the apex of the inner lines of the legs, thereby forming a seamless crotch.

Also depending from the main gusset 1 on opposite sides of the crotch portion 3, are two leg-enlarging portions 4 which, as shown in Figure 2, enter into the structure of the inner walls of the legs. Inserted generally along the transverse crotch line, and in position to form parts of the inner walls of the legs, are minor leg insert gussets 5.

In Figure 3 is shown a blank A suitable for forming all those portions of the garment not provided by the main gusset 1 with its extensions and the insert gussets 5. This blank com rises front portion C', hip portions D represented generally by dotted lines), back portions E", and leg portions B', This blank may be formed of a single piece or of two pieces united by a seam C2, as may be found most advantageous.

In assembling the parts of the garment, the gusset 1 is incorporated by stitching its side margins 2b to the margins 2a of the blank A after the back-forming portions of said blank A have been folded back to meet said margins; this stitching being continued so that the seams 2 resulting therefrom extends down well into the legs of the garment and to the lower extremities of the legenlarging portions 4 of the said gusset. Insert gussets 5 are then stitched to unite their uppermost edges 6b to the edges 6a of the gusset extension 3 to form the seams 6; also to unite their rear edges 7 b to edges 7a of the leg-enlarging extensions 4 on gusset 1 to form the seams 7 also to unite their foremost edges 8b with the edges 8a of the body blank A to form the seams 8, this last-named stitching being continued upward into the apex of the crotch portion 3 to unite the latter to the upper portions of said edges 8a.

It is to be understood that the insert gussets 5, since they constitute the inner walls of the legs where abrasion mostly takes place, may be of more than one ply of material. It is also to be understood that if the garment is made of a material having inherent elasticity in one direction, such elasticity may be used to advantage if the piece 1 is cut to bring the elasticity transversely of the hip line, while the elasticity of the insert pieces V5 is placed to best advantage when it extends rom front to rear or transversely of the transverse crotch line of the garment.

I claim:

l. A bloomer, comprisinga body-member and leg-members; the body-member including a front portion, a back portion, and hip portions between said front and back portions; the back portion and seat portion being comprised in a gusset extending downwardly past the hip portion and having lateral edges through which it is incorporated in the garment, and providing a seat that is rounded from side to side and also from near the waist to the crotch; said gusset including a crotch-forming portion extending from the seat, past 'the transverse crotch line to the front, thereby providing the bloomer with a seamless crotch; said gusset also including integral leg-enlarging portions incorporated into the rear portions of and lending to the circumferential dimensions of the leg-members; and there being also incorporated into said leg-members, minor gussets located forward o and seamed to the leg-enlarging portions first named and to the crotch-forming portion, and constituting the opposed inner walls of the leg-members.

2. A bloomer, comprising a body-member and leg-members; the front, the outer sides, and portions of the backs of said body and leg-members being formed from one blank, and the remainder of the back of the bodymember, including the seat of the garment and portions of the inner side walls of the leg-members, being formed, respectively, of a back gusset and a pair of leg-widening extensions on said back gusset; there being also incorporated in the inner side walls of said leg members separately formed insert gussets.

3. A bloomer, comprising a body-member and leg-members; thel front, the outer sides,

A and portions of the backs of said bod and A leg-members being formed from one lank, and the remainder of the back of the bodymember, including 'the seat of the garment and portions of the inner side walls of the leg-members, being formed, respectively, of

a back gusset and a pair of leg-widening extensions on said back gusset; said garment also having a, seamless crotch member consisting of a third extension on said back gusset intermediate of said pair of extensions; and

there being also incorporated in the inner` Walls of said leg-members separately formed triangular insert gussets, each having its base line stitched to one side of the crotch member, and its two sides stitched, respectively, to the front Wall of a leg, and to the leg- Widening extension of said back gusset.

Signed at Brooklyn, New York, this 7th -day of October, 1929.

JOSEPH P. BOLAND. 

